Seoul Station

Thursday May 7 Day 9

Another early morning, breakfast is at 6:30 am. We then catch a shuttle to the station for our 8:30 am train. We are in the home stretch now and headed to our last destination, Seoul, South Korea.

We arrive around 11 am and walk through the station toward the nearest exit to our hotel. I notice that there are what look to be emergency kit centres throughout the station that contain things like face masks, flashlights, and other gear of that nature. Coupled with the email I received from the consulate, I deduce that this place might not be as safe as most that I’ve been. I spend much of the day wondering what would happen to a city like Toronto that is not this prepared. Also how big does a threat have to be for a city to implement publicly accessible emergency gear? Translate to: Am I in danger right now?

Bestie says what I am thinking, it sure smells like pee, as we walk up the stairs exiting closest to our hotel. The nicest hotel yet, it feels good to enjoy on the last night of the trip. Our room is equipped with emergency gear as well, there are instructions with pictures on the box. We’re only three floors up so I’ll just jump if any thing crazy goes down.

Today is another shopping day, so after dropping our bags off we head out to see what this town has to offer. At minimum I need a suitcase and the first hood we stop in has exactly what I’m looking for. A Paris themed hard top catches my eye, so Bestie haggles the price down low and we have a deal. With my only must-have off the list we are free to roam at leisure, well sort of.

I still have some gifts to get so we explore a few other neighborhoods before going to Gangnum to eat. Disappointed with the selection so far, we make our last stop at Seoul Station. This turns out to be a good idea and I finish off getting gifts for everyone left on my list, and also pick up a gadget for myself. It is called an energy bank and is smaller than my phone, holding enough juice to keep my devices fully charged for almost a workweek. Where has this been all my life.

Bestie’s flight is at 1 am, so we kill time until she has to leave for the airport. I walk with her through the train station as far as I can, and we say our good byes at the elevator. I am not sure at what time, but at some point Seoul Station turns certain hallways into homeless shelters and I pass one on my way back alone.

Seoul Station turns into a shelter

I smile to myself, that explains the piss smell, but I move a little faster up the stairs and out the exit. Walking down the street to the hotel I think how good of an idea it is to give those in need a place to stay for the night. I also wonder if it came to a vote what I would choose for my own city? Not knowing the answer makes me uncomfortable, it’s hard to imagine how you would feel about a situation until you see it with your own two eyes.

I get back to the room unharmed. Tomorrow is our last day of the trip and I am meeting up with an old friend at 10:30 am. Relieved that I get to sleep in just a little, the alarm is set for 8 am and I’m asleep before midnight.

Not What I Signed Up For

Wednesday May 6 Day 8

Our chariot awaits us out front of the hotel and we all load up after breakfast. There’s a Bollywood feel to the chosen décor, I can’t help but snap a picture.

Pretty Girl & That Guy enjoying our Bollywood bus

We are road tripping to Gyeongju for some sight seeing. Still grumpy from yesterday and not sure what sort of treatment to expect from the locals today, I let my guard down completely when we learn from our guide that a large percentage of the Korean population is Atheist. This wins them back some points lost last night during my Busan experience.

The landscape is beautiful and reminds me of Switzerland in a way. Except that the fields we are passing are rice crops, a sight quite foreign to me

I ate at the first stop, so am not hungry when we stop for lunch. We can’t check in to the hotel yet but it is right next door, so I roam the area to see what is around.

I’ve been gone for a while now, so I start heading back after finding Tylenol for Bestie across the road. I bump into her on my way back to the bus so we meet up with the rest of our group and set out for more sights. Not surprising, the next place on our itinerary is up a mountain. The Korean’s do this different than Japan and there are not shops along the way, but it is nice to enjoy the fresh air. There are lanterns lining the trail, and larger displays at a few points where the land was flat.

At the end of the path sits one of the most majestic statues I have ever seen. We are at Seokguram Grotto, a small cave on Mt. Tohamsan that holds a breathtaking stone statue of Buddha. I wish I had a picture, but none were allowed so I pick up a magnet instead.

The souvenir shop is fantastic and I get a little monk statue I can’t stop touching and a gift for my mom. I also find a cool gift for a friend, but our instructor advises me to hold off until Seoul where I will find it for a much better price. I get the items I think I won’t find somewhere else and make my way back down the lantern trail.

Next stop is Bulguksa Temple and it’s back up the mountain we go. The Temples are always impressive, but I liked the look of these fellows.

The sun begins to set, a perfect last chance for pictures before going to check in to the hotel. I welcome the opportunity to freshen up, this has been a really long day. We are having a traditional dinner as a group tonight. I have been assured that it will be fully cooked before I have to consume it. We arrive at the restaurant famished, so it is befitting that they teach us the right way to eat Bulgogi which is with your hands. This is the kind of tradition I could indulge in again. The food is delicious and hits the spot.

Sleepy from dinner, I’m looking forward to returning to the hotel and getting a decent night sleep. Our tour guide has a different plan and we are now en route to some pond. A few of us groan; the real disappointment being that we had intended to go shoot guns at a range by the hotel before heading in for the night. That wasn’t happening now.

Wearing silk pants with high heels I am not amused with the impromptu walk in the park. I didn’t sign up for this so less than 100 meters in I turn and head back to the gift shop.

That was a good call because I find these really cool paper dolls there and pick up a few for some co workers back home. This find has made the “Moon Pond” a worthwhile excursion, and I still make it to bed with enough time to sleep. Up and at it early tomorrow to catch a train, the alarm is set for 4:30 am and I am already packed to go.

A Room With A View

Tuesday May 5 Day 7

It’s a travel day. Everything is going as expected, but not to plan. Perfect! We can’t all fit on the shuttle bus – awesome! We are late to catch the train – great! We manage to make it to Narita airport on time so it’s been an all right morning, until I am forced to check the sword. Who knew that bringing a toy sword on board a plane wasn’t going to fly? Not I that’s for sure. Relieved I don’t have to toss it all together, it gets bagged, tagged, and thrown on top of the suitcases. See you in Busan nephew’s Samurai sword. Problem averted and it’s smooth sailing through security. Bestie and I browse the airport shops and then look for a spot to get comfortable.

There is a fairly regular stream of nonsense and sarcasm that leaves my mouth, so it takes a skilled and astute individual to be able to recognize when I’m kidding and when I’m not. So when I suggest to Bestie that we wait for boarding in the massage chairs, she practically races me to them. I wasn’t kidding and she knew it. There was just enough time to work out the kinks of Japan before getting on our flight. Next stop South Korea.

Cue the fish smell. Might I remind you that I’m on an airplane (you should be yelling that last part). This is not a nightmare, my eyes are open and I’m actually watching the stewards’ pass out trays of this stuff. With one now in front of me, I’m still in disbelief. I felt certain that the smell had to be coming from a lone pescetarian’s special meal. Nope, it’s everybody’s’. I promptly hand my tray back to the first attendant I can and spend the next few minutes stressing about smelling like fish when we land. I resolve to sleep it off.

My phone starts to vibrate as soon as we touch down; it’s an email from the consulate. No big deal, just some emergency information and contacts to carry with me during my stay in South Korea. For the record, I have never been emailed by the consulate while travelling. Dorothy, we are not in Kansas anymore. This place is going to require more street smarts and we haven’t even left the airport yet. I’m happy that Bestie is well travelled and won’t be scared to explore regardless of how dicey it gets.

View from our room in Busan

We freshen up at the hotel and ditch a tour of the city with our group. Instead we take off on our own to check out the largest shopping complex in the world. Joined by Pretty Lady and her roommate, we walk together to the subway. The streets are not as clean and the people less friendly than in Tokyo. Not even on the subway yet, we have a small altercation. I’m not sure who pissed off the karma gods but this day continues to get worse.

At the mall our luck doesn’t change, Pretty Lady is declined when she asks to try on a dress and the reason given is that the dress is too small. Insert impregnated pause here. Ferocious at this point we head back to the hotel to call it a night, but not without incident.

The subway we ride back on is fairly empty, so the four of us sit on bench seats at the end of the car. Note that all the seats around us are unoccupied. A young guy in a baseball cap presents his iPad to Pretty Lady and she reads it out loud for the rest of us. “These seats are reserved, please abide by the laws of Korea”. We get up immediately and stand. At the next stop a local woman around my age sits in the exact same spot. What does Pretty Lady do? She pokes Baseball Cap on the shoulder and gestures about the woman now seated there. He sheepishly creeps over and explains to the woman in Korean, she tells him her ankle is sore and he tries to communicate this to us, but we are mad and escalating. At the next stop 2 more woman join Ankle Lady on the bench, and Baseball Cap slithers to the other side of the car to avoid having to take further action.

Not feeling this place at all, I bail on dinner plans and go back to the hotel room to wait for tomorrow to come. Bestie and Pretty Lady have their own adventure with Korean BBQ and then bring the after party back to our room. The dancing goes until dawn and I am unsure what time I actually fell asleep. With the alarm set for its usual time, tomorrow will be a better day.

Old Fashioned Girl

Monday May 4 Day 6

I hit snooze a few times on the alarm, when I finally get up there are still no messages from Roomie. Before we decide on a plan of action my phone chirps and it’s her. With all well in the world, Bestie and I head out for some gift shopping. I’ve been dying to see Shibuya by day, so that’s where we go to first.

After enjoying crepes at a café and a quick stop into Vivienne Westwood, we abort mission and leave this hood. Home to the busiest intersection in the world, it’s just not my scene today.

Since it’s souvenirs we need, and Asakusa has had the best selection so far, we get back on the subway and head that way.

At this point I’m going to take a moment to discuss the toilet situation in Japan. Hands down they are by far the most high tech toilets I have ever experienced. The seats are heated, there are options for sounds and music, even the bidet has options. No matter how many bells and whistles, nothing is taking my mind off the fact that in the stall right next door, someone is squatting over a hole in the floor. Maybe I’m old fashioned, but I’m of the camp that feels you cannot pimp out your toilets when you still have squatters.

Back in Asakusa, it feels nice to have the day free. Bestie and I maintain a slower pace to take in the details we missed on our first visit, Day 3. I am thrilled to find a Monchichi shop, by far my favourite childhood toy. I pick one up for myself, outfitted in a Kimono and impossible to resist. Pleased with our purchases, we wander the backstreets and catch our last few glimpses of this place, before returning to the hotel.

A day would not be complete without getting lost at least once, and we arrive back a lot later than planned. Opting for noodles again at the Chinese food place next door, we stay in the rest of the night.

Packed for the morning to fly to Busan, I’m in bed before midnight for the first time this trip, the alarm set for 5 am.

Last Night Shift In Tokyo’s Womb

Day 5 Part 2

I can’t sleep so I shower, then start getting ready to go out for round two of this day. The others wake at some point after and do the same.

I am first to the lobby, just in time to see Roomie’s new friend from a few nights ago walk in. We talk until the other two arrive, then hail a cab and head to Shibuya. It has been too long since we last ate, so we stop into a little spot close to our destination for a quick bite to eat. What are the chances, but they are playing old school hip hop and R&B, reminiscent of Bestie and I’s teen club days. Although it is after 1 am, this place is packed.

We are seated at the very back in a triangle shaped booth-like room that separates us from the main area. It feels exclusive which I like. The pre drink kicks off; I stick with water because I’m holding out for Red Bull at the club. The meal is quick, and we bounce to the nightclub Womb just up the street. Roomie decides it’s not her vibe and splits, Bestie and I know it’s exactly our vibe and prance into the club like schoolgirls. We are going to be doing this until 100.

This is what I live for. I don’t even dance but enjoy the debauchery. It’s not hard to find my drink, there’s a Red Bull vending machine on the third floor. No surprise there, Japan has a vending machine for everything. Bestie dances as usual. I exchange awkward moments with strangers who brave the heavy beats to shout small talk at me in an English I don’t understand. It’s easy for things to get lost in translation and I’m amused by their efforts.

DJ Mark Knight finishes his set and it’s close to five am. Bestie and I pull a sneaky maneuver to ditch the clingers collected over the past few hours and exit onto the street. Simultaneously donning sunglasses, we look for a taxi to whisk us away. After a few attempts to explain where we are going the driver finally figures it out and we are en route to our home base in Shinjuku.

Shortly after arriving in our room there is a knock at the door. This is where the youngsters come to after party and it looks like this morning is no exception. It’s Pretty Lady, a fellow trip mate. Still in her dress, as are we, I throw her some joggers and a t-shirt, and we all change into our comfy’s to swap stories in the park. Pretty Lady’s night has ours’ beat for sure.

The hotel restaurant starts serving breakfast at 7 am; so we head back to grab food then part ways to get some sleep. The alarm is set for 11 am and Roomie is first on the priority list if we haven’t heard from her by then.

Raw Deal

Thursday April 30 Day 2

It is a funny thing to land in a place 24 hours (their time) after you first took off, mind boggling actually. Take it from a girl who has had her mind boggled, this “lose a day of your life” shit will mess with even the strongest of Samurai. Ladies and gentlemen and everything in between, welcome to Japan.

I’m not sure if I’ve mentioned yet, but this Asia trip is with school. Yep, I am getting a credit for it. Five cities in 8 days, the time is money factor alone pays for itself.   If I consider  that to get a credit I would have to sit through 3 hours of lecture for 14 weeks, plus reading, review, assignments, workshops, and studying that on average will take at least double the amount of lecture time, that equals more than 125 hours.  Multiply that by my current pay rate and the trip literally has paid for itself. The fact that this is a school thing also means that the mischief level needs to stay within reason, which will be tested when my equally wild best friend joins us.

SIDE NOTE: She is an environmental scientist working in Kuwait and has just finished a grueling Masters and basically couriered her dissertation then got on a plane to meet me in Tokyo. We’ve been friends for over 25 years.

Thankfully we have been graced with a roommate that seems as though she’ll be able to keep up, which is good since Bestie arrives with drinks in hand and I’m pretty sure she landed this way.  Not sure if it is technically breakfast or dinner for us, but the three of us hit the town in search of food and a little trouble. I have travelled quite a bit and am use to the language barrier thing, it’s part of what I enjoy on a trip. However,  when you are in Asia (and this is my second time this year) it’s not just the language thing, you are also dealing with an entirely different character system, which makes finding a late night food place that much more challenging.

After what felt like hours of circling like vultures’ over the tiny caves of raw meat, we descended on a place that seemed to have the most recognizable food, or at least it looked that way in the plastic sushi displays in their front window.  I don’t know about you, but when I hear the words “raw” and “pounded” I’m definitely not thinking edible, this is the first of many times I will be wrong on this trip.  Everything on the menu was “Raw Pounded” and the words to follow weren’t any more reassuring. “Horse Mackerel”, “Manta ray Fin”, “Tuna”; “Raw Pounded Tuna” sounded more like what was on the cover of the Manga porn we purchased at  7/11 later that night, not something that I was going to even attempt putting in my mouth.

We ejected ourselves from that spot immediately and landed at a cozy sushi joint close to our hotel. It was some of the best sushi I have ever had. More notable was that for the first time ever in my life I ordered an alcohol free beer.  Tasting the beer of a country has been a big part of my travels to date and I didn’t want that to stop.  I had a brain hemorrhage 18 months ago, and quitting drinking was one of many life changes I decided to make after surviving it. Back at the sushi bar, I enjoyed the local flavors including a beer.

Though we were close to the hotel, it was easy to get lost so after our meal the 3 of us roamed the streets for hours. I don’t remember getting back to our room, or falling asleep, but the alarm was set for 5am sharp.